Accord Euro power steering pump
Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:30 PM
I have had a bit of a whine slowly develop and was really hoping it was just the belt tensioner bearing. I had Honda replace the high pressure hose for free under the recall and the mechanic mentioned the noise. He said it is coming from the power steering pump, and also mentioned it's a $2K fix!
Anyway I have found new replacement pumps (eBay) from the US for $400 (plus $100 shipping), just need to move the pulley across and install it. Even including the cost of a few liters of genuine Honda fluid it is well under the $2K quote.
However the most likely problem is the sealed bearing in the unit (it really sounds like a bad sealed bearing, hence my hope it was the tensioner). If I dismantle it I end up with a shaft and the bearing pressed on. So I would need to press off the bearing, find a suitable replacement and press it back on. Then reassemble with a $30 seal kit.
Has anybody done this before, or knows if the bearing is something I can just pick up at some place like CBC?
I guess if the lead time on the US pump is not too long, I can try to rebuild the pump and if I hit a snag switch to plan B.
I could get a unit from some wreckers, but I have never had much luck with things like this or gearboxes. They are usually worse than the one I already have.
Posted 10 June 2013 - 02:07 PM
1) Remove serpentine belt from power steering pulley. I have a special flat bar that takes a 3/8" drive short 14mm socket that makes this job very easy. To get a normal socket and breaker bar I think you would need to remove the engine mount that is in the way.
2) With pump still installed, crack the 2 bolts on the high pressure hose connector and 1 bolt on return hose connector. Also crack the 10mm allen key cap over the pressure regulator and the one other cap (holds a spring). Don't remove yet, just crack them as they are pretty tight and difficult to do when the unit is removed.
3) Remove the two bolts holding the pump to the engine, one to the left and one below right (unclip the reservoir and move it towards the front to get a socket onto this one).
4) Place a lot of rags under the pump, specially protecting the alternator. Get a couple of small plastic bags and two elastic bands.
5) Remove the 2 bolts from the high pressure hose connector, wiggle lose and stick end in one plastic band and wrap elastic band over it to prevent fluid leakage. Make sure not to loose the O-ring from the fitting. Repeat for the return hose. Now remove pump with finger/thumb over inlet/outlet so you don't get fluid over your engine or bodywork. You may also like to stick some clean rags into the inlet/outlet to soak up any excess fluid first. Clean up any drips immediately.
6) Drain fluid from pump into oil tray. Operate the pulley by hand to pump out as much fluid as possible.
If you are going to install a new pump, then see my next post for removing the pulley so you can transfer it to the new pump. Then installation is basically the reverse of removal.
Edited by stockblues15, 08 September 2013 - 10:51 PM.
Posted 10 June 2013 - 02:37 PM
1) Remove the pulley. Recommended way is a special tool to hold the pulley while applying torque to the nut. I had a long breaker bar and a long torque wrench so used the arrangement you can see below which worked well. You are using a scissor action squeezing the 2 bars together.
2) Remove circlip that retains the bearing.
3) Remove the 10mm hex plug and carefully store the pressure relief valve and spring with it. You will probably leak a bit of fluid so cover your bench with rags.
4) Remove the other cap and spring that is underneath it. You will probably leak a bit of fluid so cover your bench with rags.
5) Remove the 4 end-cap bolts and carefully remove the end-cap. I stored the internal bits in plastic sandwich seal-able bags to keep the dust off them and group them together.
6) You will see a pin on the outer edge of the pump assembly, wiggle this out.
7) Now you have to remove the guts of the pump. I wasn't sure how to do this, so I tried turning it upside down (over my rags on the bench) and tapped a bit. At first only some vanes popped out but after several goes the whole lot dropped out. Note that the shinny edge of the vane will point towards the outside of the pump when re-assembling. Store all of that in a plastic bag for latter to protect it.
8) You are now left with the outer case with the shaft still attached. Honda guide says to strike the end of the shaft (not the pulley end, but the end that was inside the pump housing) with a plastic hammer. I WD-40'ed around the bearing and left it for a while. Then with the shaft end resting on a some soft metal for protection (I used an aluminium block I had), using a large socket over the pulley end of the shaft and resting on the casing, hit it a few times with a hammer and tapped it out.
9) You can now carefully pry out the seal with a screwdriver or proper bearing puller if you have one. Be careful not to scratch any surfaces otherwise it may leak.
10) Optional step if replacing the bearing, don't do if you are just fixing a leak. Take shaft and new bearing off to mechanic to remove old bearing and press on new one. Or use a bearing puller like shown below to pull the bearing off the shaft. It comes off fairly easy with this tool, just make sure the jaws have a good grip on the bearing as you tighten up the tool.
11) My pump inside had a lot of brown crap (varnish) covering everything, so I cleaned it up with carby cleaner and rags to get a shinny result.
Edited by stockblues15, 08 September 2013 - 10:56 PM.
Posted 10 June 2013 - 02:49 PM
You will need Honda genuine power steering fluid (Honda power steering is different to other systems so you need their special fluid, it's only $17 a bottle so don't worry) about 1 litre will do unless you want to flush the system in which case get 2.
You also need a seal kit (don't bother trying to re-use existing seals as it will leak).
The kit came from eBay and has:
1 x funny oval shaped O-ring for end cover
1 x shaft seal
1 x very large O-ring for end cover
1 x large O-ring for side plate
1 x O-ring for pump housing near the seal
1 x small O-ring for pressure control valve cap
2 x small O-ring for spring cap and inlet bend
1 x straight cylinder shape seal
1 x hard flat plastic seal
You can see pictures of parts in the kit and knowing what bits you need and their shape allows you to quickly spot the right kit. Also search for Acura TSX which is the Accord Euro in US speak. However CR-V is also an option. Basically any 2.4L VTEC of the same year is likely to be OK.
If you are changing the bearing you need a NTN 6203LU (or equivalent) bearing with a rubber seal on the outside face and a metal sheild on the inside face. I didn't know that at the time so I ended up with a Nachi 6203-2NSE9 which is the same type and size of bearing, just rubber sealed on both sides. You don't need a seal on the inside face as it's a confined space, but I don't think it will be a problem.
1) To get the new bearing back on I put the shaft in the freezer (20 minutes) and warmed the new bearing to around 70 degrees in the oven (for 10 minutes with thermostat on 70). Using leather gloves to handle the bearing, it easily tapped back onto the shaft using a long socket as a drift (driving the inner race). Actually by easy I mean really easy, I tapped it once fairly lightly to start it off, then tapped it a second time and it sounded different. When I looked it was fully on. I then let it sit for a while for the temperature to equalise. Be careful not to warn the bearing too much as temps over 120 can affect the hardening, possibly the rubber seal and the grease. Otherwise get it pressed on.
The following steps I simply copied from the service manual but will repeat here with pictures.
2) Lubricate the new shaft seal with PS fluid and tap it into the recess, flat side facing out as per the norm for seals. Use a large socket or something similar as a drift. I found it a PITA to get the seal back in as it wanted to rotate away from the correct alignment. Just have to go slow and keep returning it to being square in the recess. Make sure to use a large socket as you want to apply the force to the outer edge of the seal.
3) Lubricate the shaft and seal with PS fluid and slide it back into the housing. You will need to tap it back in. Use a large socket as a drift as you want to apply the force to the outer bearing race. Don't bash the end of the shaft, or inner bearing race, otherwise you will be replacing your new bearing again very shortly. Reinstall the circlip when done. If you can't get the circlip in then the bearing is probably not fully home.
4) Lubricate (I'm not going to say PS fluid anymore as you already know to use it) the 23.8mm O-ring and slip over the shaft and fit it to the pump housing (see the black O-ring inside the housing in the picture above).
5) Lubricate the end cover seals (an oval O-ring and a very large O-ring).
6) The pump is built up on the end cover and then the housing is fitted over the top. First sit the outer case as shown. The square cutout faces the funny oval O-ring and the semi-circle cutout aligns to the hole in the end cover.
7) Next part is tricky. There is a hard plastic flat seal and rubber cylinder shaped seal. Lubricate these and fit to the square cutout, cylinder shape in first with hard flat seal on the outside. Then install the cam ring (indent facing up and semi-circle cutout align with same on outer case. You should now be able to install the pin (seen on the right of the picture). Make sure the seals (seen on the left of the picture) stay in position, once the pin is in place they become locked in.
8) Install the rotor and vanes. The correct way to install the vanes is with the flat side facing in and the rounded side facing out. You might need a magnifying glass (or jewelers loupe) to make out the flat from the rounded side. If you haven't cleaned everything up like I did, the outer edge will be shinny and the inner edge will be varnished.
9) Pour a cap or 2 of PS fluid over the rotor and vanes then install the side plate with a lubricated O-ring. Note the orientation. The pin will insert into a hole underneath the side plate and serve to locate it correctly.
10) Make sure the outer case is aligned to the center, and the rotor is aligned with the bearing hole in the center of the end cover. Then lower the pump housing over the assembly. Note that the oil gallery hole in the pump cover aligns with the oval O-ring. You may need to gently tap it, jiggle the shaft back and forth a little, to get the pump housing to fully engage. You will need a little force to get the O-rings to seat, but no more than that. If it won't go then the shaft may not be aligning with the bearing, or the splines in the shaft not aligning with the splines on the rotor. You just need to gently work it until everything lines up and it slips on. Once it is on re-install the 4 end cover bolts in stages using a criss cross pattern (final torque is 20 Nm or 14 lbf-ft)
11) In the picture above you can clearly see a hole in the outer case. This should be visible through one of the holes in the pump housing. Use a screwdriver to push the cam ring (accessible through this hole) hard against the other side of the outer case. Then reinstall the spring and hex-shaped plug (using a new lubricated 12.7mm O-ring) into the pump housing. The spring keeps the cam ring permanently located hard against the other side (like what we did with the screwdriver). Torque the plug to 29Nm or 22 lbf-ft.
12) Reinstall the pressure control valve assembly (spring first followed by valve) after coating everything with PS fluid. You can see in the picture above which end of the valve the spring is attached to. Use a new, lubricated, 16.7mm O-ring on the plug with the allen key recepticle. Torque the plug to 49 Nm or 36 lbf-ft (yes it's a tight bugger for an allen key so use a good quality allen key).
13) Reinstall the pulley. Torque spec is 64Nm or 47 lbf-ft. Use a long bar, with a socket that is a tight fit in the holes of the pulley, to stop the pulley from turning as you torque it up.
14) You should have 1 remaining O-ring, it's used to reinstall the 90 degree bend on the pump inlet (torqued to 11Nm or 8 lbf-ft. The high pressure hose has it's own O-ring but doesn't come with the kit, so don't lose the one you already have. I poured a little fluid in the inlet and manually operated the pump, then plugged inlet and outlet with rags. Finally it's ready to go back in the car.
Final install is a couple of bolts to hold it in, the high pressure hose fitting and inlet hose clamped on. Then put belt back on, top up with fluid and start her up. Check the fluid levels while operating the steering several times from lock to lock to prime the system. If it foams up you might need to let it sit for a while before having another go. Once it is quiet and steering is good, do a final fluid check and you are ready to drive.
Edited by stockblues15, 08 September 2013 - 10:46 PM.
Posted 21 September 2013 - 06:17 PM
I didnt want to wait for the seal kit to come from the US, just got it from Honda. Cost 58$, So far so good, no leaks from the pump, steering considerably lighter (did a fluid change too).
So thats done, though i think my steering rack is leaking from the drivers side , coming out of the boot.
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